One reason why stripers and hybrids have been slow to catch on with more fishermen is that people consider them poor table fare, which simply is not the case.
When cleaned properly, with the red meat along the lateral line removed, the fillets are delicious.
The problem is that most people make the mistake of trying to fry the fish, and that’s not possible with the larger fish — at least not with the thick “loins” on the “shoulders” of the fish.
However, there are parts of every striper or hybrid that are suitable for frying.
That’s where cleaning is critical: The fillets must be sorted and cut for proper use.
Cleaning
Once the fillets are removed from the skeleton, and the skin and scales are removed (an electric knife works great), use a sharp fillet knife to remove the streak of red meat that runs lengthwise along the middle of each fillet. It’s easy to do once the angle of the cut required is mastered.
Removing the long red line will force the fillet to be split into a top piece and a bottom piece from behind the rib cage to the tail. That bottom piece is thin enough to be put in a stack for frying.
That leaves the longer top fillet, which will need to be cut into two pieces that will be unequal in length. The tail end of the top fillet should be about the equal thickness of the previously-mentioned bottom part, and it can be placed in the fry stack.
The thicker (head) end should be put into a stack for grilling, baking and, even better, poaching.
Those thinner pieces in the fry stack will render a flaky white meat on par with crappie or bass. Deep fry them quickly in oil no less than 350 degrees for best results, and do not overcook.
For the thicker pieces, be careful to trim any red tissue, using the blade of a fillet knife to shave off any remaining red meat that didn’t come off with the skin.
Once done, you will have a fillet usually over an inch in thickness that is comparable to many saltwater fish, including redfish, grouper or cobia. For ease of handling, this meat can be cut into pieces the size of a deck of cards.
Seasoning
My wife is a picky fish eater, and will not eat anything that tastes the least bit “fishy,” and striped/hybrid bass is her favorite fish dinner.
I salt and pepper the thick slabs — or apply a Cajun-style rub — and let them sit in the refrigerator for an hour. Then I lightly brush them with an egg white wash before dredging them lightly through seasoned flour (using the same seasoning I put on fish).
The fish are panee’d in a non-stick skillet with either butter or olive oil over medium heat for about three minutes on each side.
The fish, which should have a crispy edge, are then removed to a rack on a platter and put in a preheated 200-degree oven.
I then remove all but about two tablespoons of the oil or butter — leaving any bits of cooked pieces in the skillet and adding a tablespoon of smashed garlic — and return the pan to high heat. I deglaze the pan with half a cup of orange juice (or more if it’s a big pan) and a couple of shots of Cointreau or Grand Marnier liquor, and reduce the liquid until it is a thick syrup-like sauce.
Remove the fish from the oven and plate it on a bed of penne (or your favorite pasta), and drizzle with the orange sauce. (TIP: Remove the sauce from the pan, leaving a tablespoon. Toss the pasta in the sauce over high heat before plating it with the fish).
It’s easier than it sounds, and worth the effort.
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